Moroccan Leather Craftsmanship

Leather craftsmanship is one of the most important aspects of Moroccan craftsmanship.^[1] and has been a traditional craft in Morocco for centuries, a profession passed down from generation to generation since the Almohad dynasty in the 12th century. Until today, the materials and techniques used in tanning are ancestral and the leather craftsmanship comes from a legendary Moroccan inspiration.

Moroccan expertise, passed down from generation to generation, particularly in Fez, has contributed to the richness and diversity of leather goods, with geometric patterns and meticulous finishes. Moroccan leather, prized for its durability and aesthetic appeal, became a sought-after material for making wallets, book bindings, and other leather goods.

Leather craftsmanship is still today supporting thousands of families in the Medina of Fez^[2] and other major cities: the leather goods sector employs 23,000 people in the city of Fez alone, representing a third of the 63,871 workers in the sector nationwide^[3]. 

Despite the fact that the year 2024 was marked by the achievement of a record level of exports from the crafts sector of around 1106 MDH^[4] (3% increase compared to the previous year), leather products reached barely 32 MDH, with a share not exceeding 3% of total crafts exports^[4].

Leather craftsmanship is now in danger of disappearing and artisans are calling on the government to save it.

Table of Content

I - Products

I - I Bag
I - II Balgha and Cherbil
I - III Stormia
I - IV Beztam or Wallet
I - V Portfolio
I - VI Saddle

II - Material

II - I "Maroquin" / Morocco Leather, a very precious leather
I - II Leather Market

III - Production Process
IV - Moroccan Traditional Leather Market
V - How Morocco wants to develop this sector
VI - References

I - Products

The traditional leather market is widely used in the production of goods and products such as leather accessories, footwear, furniture, etc.

I - I Bag

Moroccan handmade leather bags are part of Morocco's rich handicraft heritage, with a history spanning centuries. Moroccan handmade leather bags are characterized by their unique and distinctive designs, often made from natural materials such as leather^[5].

Moroccan traditional leather bags are still preserving their ancestral designs, proper to different regions from the Kingdom of Morocco:

I - I - I Berber Bags

Berbers are the indigenous ethnic group of North Africa. They are continuously distributed from the Atlantic to the Siwa oasis in Egypt, and from the Mediterranean to the Niger River. The name Berber appeared for the first time after the end of the Roman Empire.

Many Berbers call themselves some variant of the word imazighen (singular: Amazigh), possibly meaning “free people” or “free and noble men”. Today, most Berber-speaking people live in Morocco and Algeria.

In Berber tradition, leather bags were vital for mens for carrying personal items, religious amulets, and for long-distance travel, especially in the nomadic Tuareg culture. These bags, often made from goatskin, featured detailed decorations like geometric patterns, embroidery, and symbolic motifs that conveyed good fortune or were used in migration narratives. 

Zaaboula

The zaaboula is a shoulder bag worn by men in rural Morocco on their left side, with a dagger on the right. It is a purely Moroccan tradition and custom, and is considered a symbol of masculinity and virility.

Zaaboula bag is made from leather and has a flap decorated with tribal embroidery made of cactus silk. 

Zaaboula is made of leather for storing money and other essentials, such as keys, a razor, a mirror, prayer beads, the Quran, and sometimes fruits.

The shape and name of the zaboula vary from one region to another. In rural Morocco, it is called zaaboula, which means "bag" in colloquial Arabic.

It is also called the Tuareg bag in reference to the Nomads of the Sahara - Berber tribes^[6].
 

Choukara

It's a slim messenger men leather shoulder bag with flap decorated with traditional Moorish embroideries. Merchants in Morocco when traveling used this bag under their coat to put their money and valuables and medicine.

Handmade from thick tan leather; The strap is long enough to wear the bag at the shoulder or cross-body with it sitting above the hip. Under the flap, there is a long narrow main pocket.

I - I - II LSSAN Bag

The LSSAN bag is inspired by the Moroccan tradition of leather, where craftsmen excel in artistic representation on leather, through islamic geometric patterns, the Amazigh alphabet (Berber) or simply by drawing inspiration from the rich and diverse nature of the country^[7].

The word LSSAN comes from the Arabic word LISSAN which means "Tongue". LISSAN is pronounced LSSAN in the dialects of North Africa, especially in Morocco.

With its special shape, where the lower part of the front of the bag looks like a tongue, the choice of the name LSSAN for this kind og bags were naturally obvious.

I - I - III Sref Alih Tote Bag

Drawstring Bucket Bag hand embossed with intricate arabesque, floral and berber details. The name "Sref Alih" in moroccan dialect means "Hang Him", inspired by the the drawstring closure with tassels.

Made of soft leather, sheep or goat leather, which helps craftsmen to emboss the entire surface of the tote bag with geometric and floral patterns.

I - I - IV Waterman Bag

Is is a hand crafted leather handbag / cross body messenger bag in a thick dark brown leather with statement design of rivet studs, coins and a medaillon on the front flap, traditionally used by the waterman to put coins in it, 

I - II Balgha (in Arabic البلغة) and Cherbil (in Arabic الشربيل)

Balgha (or Babouche) is an authentic craft product, it was associated with the manufacture of leather products, the job that has made the prosperity of the city of Fez for a long time. The artisans have contributed, thanks to their intelligence and the extent of their imagination, to beautify the babouche Fassie again and again. Balgha is unisex. On the other hand, the male version remained, for several years, trapped in unchanged colors and shapes: yellow, gray and white, while that for women could be broken down into colors and shapes that took into account femininity and the elegance of the ladies^[8].

Cherbil is a traditional shoe embroidered with gold or silk threads and various colors, one of the oldest shoes reserved for women of North Africa.

One historian attributed the origin of the word "Cherbil" to the time of Andalusia because of the harmony and coherence that connected him to the caftan at this time. Especially since it is a symbolic reference to women, because when the man wanted to talk about a woman, he did not name it explicitly, but said "MoulatEch-cherbil" synonymous with the owner of cherbil, a description of the wise woman, with a respectable social standing and a good reputation^[8].

I - III Stormia

Stormia in Moroccan dialect, or Moroccan Pouf / Ottoman as it's commonly called in home decor language, is a relaxation accessory whose origins date back to the Ottoman Empire and the Arab world^[9].

Moroccan poufs / ottomans have a rich history rooted in the Ottoman Empire and later integrated into Moroccan culture, where they became popular for seating and decorative purposes. The term "ottoman" itself reflects their origins, as the style of furniture was brought to Europe from the Ottoman Empire during the late 1700s^[9].

In the Arab world, well before the date reported it was widely used to decorate and furnish homes. They were generally made of leather and provided inside them with fabrics that made up the part of the padding^[9].

First poufs were born as royal seats or in some cases as footrests with squared lines and a comfort that is certainly not the best. Over the years this complement has undergone various aesthetic and functional transformations^[9].

In traditional Moroccan homes, poufs were used as low seating arrangements, either on their own or in combination with floor cushions^[9].

Authentic Moroccan Pouf are coated with a goatskin and accompanied by authentic and attractive designs. They are completely hand stitched / embroidered^[10].

I - IV Beztam or Wallet

In the morocan tradition we find several wallet designs that are still produced by the moroccan craftsmen.

Using genuine leather dyed with natural vegetable pigments in Fez and Marakech, Moroccan wallets and then embossed by hand with a variety of fun designs reminiscent of Morocco. 

There is also the leather change purse, a traditional square shape with golden patterns on top, it is opened by pulling on the sides and closed by dropping. A handy wallet and fits easily in any pocket or bag.

I - V Portfolio and Book Binding

The history of the Moroccan leather wallet is inseparable from that of "Maroquin", a sumac-tanned goatskin, renowned for its softness and color. Imported to Europe in the 17th century, it was used for luxury items such as wallets, bookbindings, and furniture accessories.

Moroccan leatherwork is characterized by the use of geometric patterns, vibrant colors, and meticulous workmanship that reflect the country's cultural richness.

Moroccan Leather portfolios and book bindings exists in two designs:

• Embossed leather portfolios and book bindings
  
• Gold printed on leather portfolios and book bindings

I - VI Saddle

The history of Moroccan horse saddle making stretches back to the age of great dynasties, when sultans and warriors rode into battle atop finely crafted steeds. 

Moroccan Riders by Jalal Gharbi

In royal courts, master craftsmen were commissioned to create pieces worthy of kings, their designs reflecting Morocco’s opulence and equestrian prestige. These saddles were often encrusted with silver, draped in silk, and embroidered with motifs inspired by Andalusian and Berber art.

Unlike European saddles, which prioritized speed and agility, Moroccan saddles were crafted for endurance, allowing riders to travel vast distances across the harsh landscapes of the Atlas Mountains and the endless dunes of the Sahara. 

The art of crafting a Moroccan Horse Saddle begins with the selection of wood, often cedar or walnut, which is carefully carved to create the saddle tree. Once the wooden base is completed, the sarrajin moves to leatherwork, using traditional tanning techniques that date back centuries. The leather is soaked in natural dyes—saffron for golden hues, pomegranate for deep reds, and indigo for royal blues. It is then stretched, cut, and stitched with unwavering precision. The patterns and embellishments are not merely decorative; they carry deep cultural significance, with motifs inspired by Berber, Andalusian, and Islamic art. Each piece is hand-tooled, ensuring that no two saddles are ever exactly alike.

II - Material

II - I "Maroquin" / Morocco Leather, a very precious leather

The term "Maroquin", also known as Morocco Leather, refers to goat, kid, or sheep leather that has been tanned with sumac (tannin extracted from a shrub found in warm regions) or gallnut (a growth produced on oak trees by the bite of an insect, which produces a black tannin). It originates from Morocco and was imported to Europe as early as the 16th century. It is believed to have been established in Parisian markets as early as 1536, following treaties signed between the Ottoman Empire and France.

"Un Maroquin de Ministre" - A Minister's Maroquin
"Maroquin" has another meaning derived from its origins. It is the name given to a ministerial position. This expression is often used to refer to a ministerial portfolio. This diversion is said to have come from the morocco leather portfolios, which were of high quality.

II - II Leather Market

In the meat industry, the skin and hides of animals are considered waste material. At the same time, the Traditional leather market recycles the skins and hides to produce leather. In 2023, Morocco produced a total of 550,000 tons of red meat (beef, lamb, etc.)^[11].

Increasing meat consumption automatically produces the waste skins and hides of animals. Dumping waste is not financially beneficial for the meat industry. So, the leather industry will use skins and hides for the production of leather.

Based on the type, the Moroccan traditional leather market is segmented into bovine leather, sheep leather, and goat leather^[12].

Goat leather dominates the Moroccan traditional leather market in 2023^[13]. Due to its highest quality, it is also one of the most volatile leathers. The leather is composed of interwoven fibers that are very opaque. It gives the skins a very tight and clean texture. The natural characteristic of goat leather is that it is very soft and flexible and is water-resistant due to lanolin and its waxy fat.

III - Production Process

The production of leather hides takes place in Fez or Marrakech, which are entirely occupied by tannery districts.

Leather production is a complex multi-stage process that usually includes the following steps^[14]:

• Leather preparation^[14]: In this stage, the hide is separated from the animal's body, and then the hair, fat, and other excess materials are removed.
• Tanning^[14]: In this stage, the hide becomes a material that is resistant to rot and damage.
• Dyeing^[14]: In this stage, the desired color is added to the hide.
• Processing^[14]: In this stage, the hide is made into the desired shape and size and is ready for use.

III - I Traditional leather tanning

Tanning is the process of transforming the hide of an animal after skinning it into a useful product, leather. The Tanning process preserves the hide from rot and gives it elasticity and durability. Tanning is done entirely by hand without the need for machinery, using only 100% natural resources and no artificial or chemical products. A natural process that has been practiced since medieval times^[15].

The history of traditional tanneries in Fez dates back to the creation of this spiritual and historic city approximately 12 centuries ago. In approximately 1325, Ali Ibn Abi Zar (in Arabic ابن أبي زرع), in his Rawd al Qirtass inventory (in Arabic كتاب روض القرطاس), noted the presence of 86 tanneries in Medina where tanning work was very popular and a source of wealth for tanners according to the proverb of the time, which says, ‘‘Dar Dbagh, Dar Dhab.” This means that the tannery was a gold mine and occupied a privileged place within Fassi society^[16].

Dar Chaouara, one of three leather tanneries in the old city of Fez, is a large leather industry workshop that has been passed down from generation to generation by craftsmen. However, this house, which turns into a beehive every morning, remains the largest, to the point that some call it the Moroccan leather stock exchange. Similar to Fez, the city of Meknes, which is about 60 km away, and Marrakesh, located in southern Morocco, also host other leather tanning houses; however, craftsmen believe that the starting point and origin has always been Fez^[16].

Moroccan Tanneries consist of many stone vessels filled with a wide range of dyes and various liquids spread out like a watercolor tray. Dozens of men, many of whom are standing waist-deep in dyes, work under the hot sun to tend to the hides that remain soaked in the vessels^[17].

The hides are first soaked for 2-3 days in a caustic mixture of cow urine, quicklime, water and salt, while the tanners scrape off the hair fibers and fat in order to prepare them for dyeing. This helps break down the tough leather, removing excess fat, flesh and hair that remain on it^[17].

Then, they are soaked again in a set of vats containing a mixture of water and pigeon droppings, which contains ammonia that acts as a softening agent that allows the skins to become malleable, making them easier to work with and allowing them to absorb the dye^[17].

The skins are then transferred to the beaks where the artisans trample them barefoot every day from 6am to 2:30pm to knead the hives and obtain the desired softness^[17].

III - II Dyeing the leather

When the skins are dry and smooth, they are ready to be dyed. And to do this work, they use natural products that are exclusively used for dyeing: poppy for red, mint for green, indigo for blue, kohl for black, henna for orange and a mixture oil with pomegranate for yellow. The skins thus prepared for a week are then rinsed and relaxed for a day by means of a wooden machine in which they are rotated.

III - III Manufacturing process of leather goods

After being designed, each piece of leather is carefully cut and sewn using traditional tools, then oiled in order to eliminate the smell of the leather. For decoration, Moroccan artisans use engraving, embroidery, painting and inlaying of colored leather, barbarian kilim, precious stones, copper or silver, depending on each model^[18]

III - III - I Moroccan Embroidery on Leather

Moroccan embroidery on leather is a beautiful and intricate art form that blends traditional craftsmanship with luxurious materials. It's often used to decorate bags, slippers (balgha), ottomans, poufs, belts, book covers, and jackets. The embroidery typically features geometric patterns, floral motifs, and arabesques, often stitched in vibrant silk threads or metallic gold/silver thread^[19]

IV - Moroccan Traditional Leather Market

Bazaars in Morocco, the specialized shops for selling traditional and antique products, are among the most important interfaces for tourism in the kingdom, and a signpost for marketing of locally made products^[18].

Recently, artisans are focusing on upgrading the old version of the manufacturing infrastructure and are observing the opportunities available in the e-commerce sector.

IV - I Data on exports of traditional leather products during the last five years^[20]

During the year 2021, leather goods exports increased by 17% compared to 2020, and their turnover reached 43 million dirhams, a share equivalent to 5% of total exports of traditional craft products.

Handcrafted Leather goods exports is experinecing regression over the last five years.

IV - II Importing markets for leather goods (year 2021)^[27]

The American market receives more than a third of leather goods exports, with a share of 37%, and France comes in second with a share of 11%, followed by Spain and the category "other European countries" (9% each). knowing that more than half of leather goods exports going to this category were sent to Switzerland and Scotland (56%).

IV - III Leather goods exporting cities (year 2021)^[27]

The cities of Casablanca and Marrakech monopolized leather goods exports, with a share of approximately 91%. Casablanca accounted for the largest share (61%) of exports, mainly to the United States of America (48%) and Belgium (13%). The city of Marrakech, for its part, contributed with a share of 30% of the turnover of these products, to France (24%) and the United States of America (21%) and the category "Other European countries" (20%), represented mainly by Scotland (56%), Denmark (18%) and Sweden (14%).

V - How Morocco wants to develop this sector

Modernization and Export

Today, Moroccan companies are modernizing traditional craftsmanship to create high-end products and expand their international reach, while maintaining the excellence of their craftsmanship.

Government action plan

Export, labeling and the sustainability of trades are the three priority levers for the development of Moroccan crafts in general, and traditional leather craftsmanship in particular. A sector that strongly faces the problem of informal work. The challenge therefore remains the structuring of the sector and the strengthening of its competitiveness. In this context, the main current government actions are the creation of the National Registry of Crafts, which saw the registration of more than 389,000 artisans, and the establishment of the Compulsory Health Insurance, which has more than 641,000 beneficiaries. Programs were also launched to improve craft production, market knowledge and export orientation^[28]

VI - References